The Never Ending
Apocalypse
The Reverend Seth Ethan
Carey
September 30th,
2007
First Congregational Church, Glen Ellyn,
Illinois
www.firstconge.org
630-469-3096
It was a
quiet afternoon at the far edge of the world.
I'd been in
Eastern Africa for three days when I found myself sitting at an old wooden table
in the rural mountain village of Kishanje, engaged in conversation with my
traveling companion Pat Brady and our gracious host, Reverend Ben Tumuheirwe. I
was nearly 8000 miles from home, breathing the thin air of high altitudes and
waxing philosophical on the intersection of science and religion. I thought it
was an ironic conversation, given the lack of running water in that deeply
spiritual place.
Pat had
just finished teaching a class on astrophysics to a group of high-school aged
orphans, who were now playing a game of soccer in the late afternoon sun. He had
taught them about the death of stars. “The sun is no exception, you know,” Pat
explained to us afterwards as he casually peeled a banana. “When the sun enters
its Red Giant Phase in about 450,000 years, its mass will envelop the planet,
evaporating oceans and destroying all life on earth.”
Perhaps such
an apocalyptic revelation should have troubled me, but in all honesty I was more
concerned with my own personal safety in the here and now. Only an hour before,
I had nearly fallen to my death from a second story balcony. I feared that my
keen knack for tripping over things would be my undoing in Uganda, where
guard-rails are made of twigs and pot-holes in the road are deep as graves. I
even managed to fall out of the pulpit the previous Sunday morning, but I’d
rather not go into details there. Tripping over your own robes in church is
embarrassing enough—although one must admit that it isn’t as embarrassing as
tripping over someone else’s robes—but falling out of the pulpit is a new low.
Although it was, to its credit, the only part of my sermon that got any laughs.
The
hospitality in Kishanje was exceptional and no words can do justice to the
natural beauty of its surroundings. But getting there wasn’t easy. We reached
the base of the mountain at dusk three days prior, as I watched the sun set over
the bars and brothels of Kabali Town, gateway to the western mountains of Uganda
and the wild jungles of the Congo beyond. Our driver—a man named Noah— took us
up the nearly vertical mountain pass in pitch black darkness. As we wound our
way up and around the mountain, I made the mistake of looking down. I couldn’t
help but notice that the passenger-side tires were soaring off the ground,
propelled by gargantuan rocks and bumps in the road, mere edges from a sheer
drop of several hundred feet. I feared death. For three hours I cast furtive
glances over my shoulder, half-expecting to see the grim reaper nestled in among
the bunches of bananas we’d purchased along the way. But by the grace of God
Noah saw us through, navigating his pick-up truck of an ark across the deadliest
off-roading adventure that I ever hope to encounter.
After that
drive, an exploding sun didn’t frighten me at all.
But our
host, Ben, took a real interest in Pat’s dying stars. “That’s exactly what it
says in 2 Peter,” Ben replied with enthusiasm. “That there will be a loud noise,
and the heavens will be consumed by fire; that even the elements themselves will
melt. Isn’t it amazing,” he added, “that the scriptures could be so precise?
See, it all makes sense!” But when I turned and looked out the window at the
poverty-stricken orphans peering in, I couldn’t make sense of anything at all.
***
Due in large
part to the deadly epidemic of HIV that has swept across Uganda in the past
twenty years, there are over two-million orphaned children living there. Most of
them have few resources and little hope of ever overcoming the cruel hand that
life has dealt them. A few years ago, Pat and Ben founded Juna Amagara
Ministries to combat the threat of orphan poverty—to give as many orphans as
they could an education, a home, and a chance to succeed. In the relatively
short time since its creation, they have founded an orphanage in the city of
Umbarare, put dozens of orphans through school, and have even begun expanding
the operation to include learning centers in the villages of Kishanje and
Kimoynge.
As chairman
of the organization, Pat invited me to accompany him on a first-hand inspection
of their operation, and to bear witness to God’s healing work in Uganda.
We spent our
first week at their satellite facility in Kishanje, teaching an improvised Intro
to Computers class to the high school students there. The organization had
acquired three laptops from a recent donation, and we had to share them between
nearly twenty students. When Pat wasn’t scrawling notes about processors and
binary code on the well-worn blackboard, the students were tightly clustered
around these computers, getting hands-on experience with Microsoft Office.
Occasionally some dirt and debris would fall from the ceiling onto the keyboard,
but they just dusted it off and went back to work on the machines. They were
powered by a diesel generator out back.
One evening,
after most of the children had gone home, I was sitting in bed reading when I
heard the unmistakable sounds of someone playing video games in the common room.
Could it be? I thought perhaps that I was feeling the psychotropic effects of my
anti-malarial drugs. Or maybe it was just wishful thinking. But as you can
imagine, I was going through a bit of electronics withdrawal so I got up to
investigate. It turns out that Pat had showed a couple of the kids how to boot
up the Pinball game that came loaded on one of the machines, and they stared at
the screen, transfixed, their lips curled upward in child-like grins.
One of the
teachers at the school—a man named Moses—sat at the keyboard for an hour, a
regular pinball wizard.
The next day
in class, Pat and I noticed that the students were packed in more tightly than
usual around one of the laptops. And then we heard the telltale beeping sounds
and digital music that accompanied the pinball software.
“All right
guys, all right, you can play video games after class,” Pat began telling them,
working his way towards the crowd. It was then that we realized it wasn’t the
kids who had interrupted our class to play video games, but one of the teachers.
It was Moses. He just shrugged, and smiled, as if to say, “Can you blame me?”
And I
couldn’t. When the nearest medical facility is adorned with a cardboard sign
that reads surgery, when the streets
of your town are littered with garbage and discarded banana peels, when the only
world you know is populated by a never-ending line of children in rags, no— I
can’t blame you for clinging to this machine, this icon, this graven image of
the modern world, and all of the possibilities that it represents.
***
Uganda is a
hard country. In 1971 it was seized in a military coup by Idi Amin, an
ultraviolent and maniacal dictator who remained in power for eight long years,
before his own people drove him into exile. Things have been slowly improving
there since the 1980’s, but the unstable political climate, so susceptible to
corruption and collapse, makes it an unlikely interest for the big corporate
investors that could really improve the economy.
Now, I know
I tend to come down pretty hard on mega-corporations. But in a land without
hamburgers, it would have been nice to have a McDonald’s nearby. And while the
corporate presence in America can be overwhelming, I for one would welcome some
new corporate overlords in Uganda.
Most of the
country is living in terrible poverty. The government has put a lot of resources
into expanding the capital city of Kampala, but much of Uganda is a vast
wilderness of shantytowns and unpaved roads—dirt highways trod by a million
people who will never know another world.
When I was
teaching those kids alongside Pat in Kishanje, I saw so much potential in them. They were kind,
intelligent, enthusiastic, hard working kids. And Juna Amagara Ministries has
given them a chance to shine.
But for
every one of them that will get an education and rise above their own dire
circumstances, there are a hundred more whose gifts and talents will be
unrecognized, disregarded, forgotten. There are a hundred more who will never
learn to read, never learn to use a computer, never learn that one day, the sun
will explode.
That’s one
kind of apocalypse, a supernova, the kind that happens so fast you won’t even
know what hit you. But the orphans of Uganda suffer from something else, slow to
kill but equally devastating on a personal level—a perpetual fire that consumes
possibility and melts hope, dissolving every chance they ever had—a bad hand of
cards, a constant tragedy, a never ending apocalypse.
But for a
lucky few, organizations like Juna Amagara can arrest the slide into oblivion
and turn things around. It can give them a shot at a better life, a chance to
transform the consuming fire of poverty into an exploding star of never ending
possibility.
***
With nine
hours to go until I arrived home, God gave me a blessing in disguise. I had
settled into my seat on the plane, looking forward to a long afternoon of
British Airways in-flight entertainment, when I realized that the headphone jack
on my armrest was busted. I couldn’t plug in my headphones. If I couldn’t plug
in my headphones, I couldn’t watch Pirates of the Caribbean. A bead of
sweat trickled down my brow as a cold panic seized me.
I inquired
into the availability of other seats, and to my good fortune they moved me to
first class. The trouble was, they had put me next to a man who wasn’t
interested in watching in-flight entertainment. Just as I plugged in my
headphones with a satisfying click, he began a conversation with me that lasted
for nearly an hour.
At first, I
was annoyed at the irony of the situation. It had been a long two weeks, and I
was in bad need of the kind of mindless entertainment that only a movie about
pirates can offer. The man seated next to me was a Saudi Arabian oil tycoon, a
dignified man of refined tastes who complained to me about the quality of
British airline food all throughout lunch.
“The British
were once a proud people,” he announced loudly, “regarded around the globe for
their hospitality. But this,” he pointed to his dish with a plastic fork, “this
is a poor man’s meal.” After leaving a third world country, I was a bit annoyed
with this sort of talk.
But when the
subject of my profession came up, along with my trip to Uganda, he said
something that took me off guard and stayed with me.
“It’s a
shame,” he said sincerely. “No one goes on pilgrimage anymore.”
I hadn’t
considered my own trip to be a
pilgrimage, per se. In all of the planning and traveling, the word pilgrimage hadn’t been uttered once.
The word is generally used to refer to a journey made to a holy place. But then
I realized that that’s exactly what we’d done. We had traversed the globe to
bear witness to something holy, a light shining in the darkness, manifested in
the hopes and dreams of these bright-eyed orphans.
And it’s
something we’re called to do all the time—not necessarily to walk the earth,
hunting for sacred shrines, but rather to journey inward, to walk the path of
Christ, to go looking for God in unlikely places. Because somewhere along the
way, we’re transformed into the kind of people God always meant us to be, the
kind who can create a new heaven and
a new earth—
Not just for
the privileged, but for everyone.
Amen.